Bezel setting (or Rub over setting) consists of surrounding the stone with a metal rim folded over its edges to hold it in place. A “fillet”, a small decorative recut, is often added to enhance the whole. If the metal does not completely encircle the stone, it is referred to as a half-bezel setting.
Tire setting
Tyre setting is a variation of the bezel technique. It does not include a fillet; instead, its distinctive feature lies in the rounded, smooth shape of the metal, which creates a crown resembling a tyre, hence its name.
Flush setting
Flush setting (also called mass setting, gypsy setting, or rub-over flush) is another variant of the bezel. Here, the stone is integrated directly into a larger metal surface. Since the table of the stone is level with the metal, it creates a seamless effect.
Chip setting
Chip setting is characterized by a slightly conical seat for the stone. This gives the impression of a fillet and is often mistaken for a bezel. However, in this case, the stones are secured by small metal chips, lifted and folded around them.
Tension setting
Tension setting (or suspended setting) uses the tension of the metal itself to hold the stone in place, without visible prongs. The ring’s mass must be sufficient to ensure the stone remains immovable, the only effort required being to insert it.
Channel setting
Channel setting consists of inserting stones of identical size side by side into a groove formed by two parallel metal bands. The stones are only secured on two sides: the upper edges of the rails are folded down to hold them firmly.
Prong setting
Prong setting (or claw setting) involves folding small metal claws around the gemstone to hold it in place. These prongs can vary in number, be doubled, and have different finishes: rounded, squared, angled, or pointed ("cat claws").
Cut-down setting
Cut-down setting is well suited to antique cuts. It first involves setting the stones in a band wide and thick enough to later sculpt prongs using a file or graver. This technique helps compensate for imperfections in the stones.
Nail setting
Nail setting is achieved by hammering precious-metal rods placed between several stones. By applying pressure, multiple stones can be set simultaneously. These rods can then themselves be set, reducing the amount of visible metal.
Bar setting
Bar setting resembles channel setting but alternates stones with parallel metal bars, which secure them. Unlike channel setting, the bars here run along the finger rather than the ring.
Castle setting
Castle setting (or scallop setting) is a refined blend of bead setting and prong setting. The setter hollows out a seat on each side of the stones. The remaining metal is divided into two, creating a structured motif reminiscent of castle battlements.
Fishtail setting
Fishtail setting (or French pavé) is an older technique, differing from traditional bead setting by the absence of a fillet. It features elongated beads separated by successive V shaped notches carved down to their base.
Bead setting
Bead setting (classic or traditional) consists of forming, with a graver, tiny beads of metal directly on the surface to hold the stones. These beads are then rounded using a tool called a beading tool, giving them the appearance of miniature spheres.
Pavé setting
Pavé setting (from the French for "paving") is a type of bead setting requiring a significant number of small, uniform stones. The goal is to minimize visible metal between stones, giving the illusion of a fully paved surface.
Snow setting
Snow setting is a slight variation of pavé. Stones of various diameters are set closely together, leaving as little visible metal as possible. The aim is to recreate light effects similar to sunlight reflecting on snow.
Scalloped hallo
Scalloped hallo setting cleverly combines two techniques: bead setting at the center and bezel setting along the border. It is distinguished by a succession of arched segments along its perimeter.
Millegrain setting
Millegrain setting (or milgrain) is an ornamental technique. Instead of fillets, small metal beads are carved out to form decorative borders. A specific tool, the millegrain wheel, cuts and pushes the metal to create this beaded frieze.
Star setting
Star setting is a variant of bead setting. The setter carves star-shaped grooves into the metal, some of its rays containing beads to secure the stone while others remain decorative.
Invisible setting
Invisible setting (or mystery setting) involves securing calibrated stones while completely hiding the metal underneath. The jeweller crafts a T-shaped rail into which precisely cut stones fit perfectly. This work requires lapidary skills as much as setting expertise
Fur setting
Fur setting is mainly used in Cartier’s Panthère collections. With a flat graver, the setter cuts and folds back fine strands of metal over the stone, reproducing the effect of feline fur.
LS setting
LS setting is patented by Lyon Serti. Using a pyramid or round shaped punch, the setter applies sharp strikes around the stones to push metal over them. This technique also serves as a decorative method for metal surfaces.
